My ride from Palas de Rei today saw me arriving in Santiago de Compostela. The landscapes and small rural villages along the way remind me of the west of Ireland , only with sun. The locals, at least in the countryside, are a sturdy people walking around with a staff and tending their small fields and allotments and stock. The Camino walkers / pilgrims provide a lucrative source of income for the many small guesthouses, cafes, bars, restaurants that are dotted along the way, and no doubt contribute greatly to the local economy. Prices are a little inflated in these places, but I guess if you are gasping for water or a beer then you will pay over the odds. The route was very up and down crossing small rivers, quite tiring when you haul yourself up a few hundred meters in altitude only to go down again and then to repeat, many times over. The latter portion of today’s ride I stuck to the main N547, because most of the traffic was using the new autovia that is partly finished, consequently the N route was very quiet, with a nice shoulder to ride along. Construction of the remaining autovia eastwards is ongoing, and is pushing through challenging territory. I don’t understand why places like Spain are able to build high speed railways and autovias through this big country with its challenging terrain, while we struggle to build a single high speed line a few hundred miles through pretty benign territory. If the Tory government cancels the northern section of HS2, they deserve to have a Peasants’ Revolt on their hands. Not that they will mind because they know they won’t be in power to have to answer for it. My lodgings in Compostela is an Airbnb on the edges of the city near the University Hospital, very modern and pleasant and bike friendly. I’m happy to be a little out of the town because, if memory serves me correctly from previous visits, the city centre around the cathedral is very busy and noisy with walkers and pilgrims celebrating their completion of the Camino in to the small hours. Out here it is quiet, I have a lovely restaurant just down the road, and a small supermarket nearby, so all my needs are catered for. Today, Tuesday, I am spending some time doing a bit of personal admin of washing and drying, and I will do a bit of cleaning and maintenance on the bike,. Then I will either walk or take the bus into the centre this afternoon / evening to have a look at the sights and observe the walkers / pilgrims celebrating their achievement. Then tomorrow, Wednesday, I will turn south on to the Camino Portugues, heading for Porto and eventually on to Lisbon. I wonder if I will run in to many walkers / pilgrims doing that route from south to north ? I, of course, will be heading in the opposite direction southwards.
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