Back to Morocco for some Springtime cycling in the Atlas Mountains. I had a taster last year in 2024, on an organised tour, which was fine, but this year I want to be a bit more independent and do my own thing. However, not alone. I am too old and risk averse these days to go completely solo, so have teamed up with a cycling companion, Richard, who will cycle with me. We are both of a similar age, retired, but want the assurance of some company when out and about in Morocco. We found each other on one of the various touring cyclist websites, and connected, and I visited him near Cadiz earlier in the year so we could both have a look/ see of each other. Must have worked because we agreed to cycle together in Morocco and give each other the assurance of some company on our travels. Richard lives in Spain with his wife, so he flew from Malaga, while I flew from Birmingham, and we met in Marrakesh, staying two nights in a small Riad in the old part of the city as we got ourselves organised and prepared for the off. Marrakesh is busy, bustling, noisy, chaotic, and mildly interesting, although I think it is overhyped on the travel shows. The main square can be fun, but I very quickly tire of people selling trinkets, and performing - fire eaters, pet monkeys doing tricks etc. The food isn't that great, lots of tagines or cousous, and then more tagines or couscous. We are here during Ramadam, so the place is busy in the evenings when the locals break their fast - presumably with tagines and cousous ! - and, of course, there is no alcohol on offer, which doesn't bother me, and will - some will no doubt say ! - do me good !
After a couple of nights in Marrakesh, doing a bit of sightseeing and rediscovering the ubiquity of tagine and couscous, on Sunday morning we set off. Getting out of Marrakesh was not as hair raising as I though it would be, and after wending out way thorough endless back streets in the old city, we came to a main road that led us out of the city. Perhaps because it is Sunday, there were lots of second hand markets selling anthing and everything, from old clothes to second hand liquidisers, a sort of down market flea markets. It was busy, but we had a good margin on the main road, which made it fine for cycling. Around Marrakesh is pretty flat so it was easy riding, although always aware of the traffic and the unpredictable motorbikes and scooters that abound here, as well as a noticeable number of donkey drawn carts, usually overloaded with whatever. Motorbikes will have father, mother, and a child or two on board, father with a crash helmet but the rest of the family without. We had planned on staying around our day's destination,Touama, and had heard that there was a place which would be open and suitable, but when we got there it was closed, so our only achievable option for our first night was a rather high class hotel a little away from Touama, where we appeared to be the only guests, and were given a very nice suite with two separate bedrooms. We ate there as well, a couscous with beef dish, and a very nice mixed salad, and sparkling water ! The two lads who were looking after us were from the Cote d'Ivoire in West Africa, and, yes, they really wanted to go to the UK rather than stay in Morocco ! ...READ MORE...
The road was busy, I guess because it is the only road up and over the Atlas Mountains in this area. However, it is a well built and maintained road, with a wide margin, so although noisy it was safe. Worst of all are the motorcycllists, usually in packs, who disturb the peace. The motorbiker look, all beefy and hairy, is not a good look. I think somebody should tell them. Some of the lorries look as though they have seen better times, and belch black exhaust as they grind up the mountains, overly weighed down with precararious looking loads. There is a lot of motorhomes, usually French or Italian, couples of a certain retired age enjoying the winter sun and maybe revisiting their hippy youth. The riding was tiring and unrelenting, climbing up several thousand feet, until we reached the Col / summit at 2,220 meters / 7,000 feet where it was bitterly cold and windy. Then a rapid downhill for a few miles into a valley, and along to Agdal Telouet where we spent the night at a rustic but charming auberge in the middle of nowhere, and were welcomed most warmly by host Muhammed ...READ MORE...
The cold wind of last night had abated. Muhammed told us that when there is rain over in Marrakesh it causes wind in the mountains. Luckily, what breeze there was in the morning was to our back, so we bowled along the valley until we came to another valley which we followed, eventually a few hundred feet above the valley floor and able to see all the terraced fields down in the valley, so green and verdant compared to the red and dun coloured rock of the mountainsides. The valleys are very rural, lots of donkeys carrying fodder up from the valley floor, women hauling fire wood, herders looking over the sheep and goat who roam precariously up and down the mountainsides. -...READ MORE...
Our accommodation was a little outside Ait Benhaddou, very simple and rustic, run by some smiley people who had a family of kids who were all put to work when they were not at school, it seems. We ate at the riad, the usual fare of tagine and couscous and mint tea, with eau avec gaz as a special treat. And then an early night. There isn't much more to do than to go to one's room, read, listen to the radio, write up the blog and sleep. Outside was pitch black, and the stars in the sky stunning, but it was a bit chilly and windy to stay out long admiring the wonders of the Universe. After a simple breakfast of bread, honey and the usual fried up pancake style thing, our ride today was pretty short, taking us to Ouazazarte, a large-ish regional town. ...READ MORE...
Today was another day of climbing over a mountain pass on the way to Agdz as we make our way down further south to a series of oases towns. But first, we had to get over a pass of 1700 meters, through some spectacular mountain and valley views, along the RN9 which has been substantially renovated in the last few years., and so was a good road for riding along, with a decent margin for safety. And then, once over the summit, it was a nice long downhill in to Agdz., which is at the head of a valley that is green and fertile, with lots of palm trees and various crops which are able to be grown there because of the water. I'm not sure where the water comes from, perhaps from aquafers deep underground. . ....READ MORE...
Today should have been a fairly straightforward day, some 60 miles on a decent road more or less level and with some gentle downhill. Very little uphill compared to what has been the pattern so far. Well, it should have been straightforward. About half way along the route, I decided to pull off the road and have a little snack I had brought with me and rehydrate. I saw a bit of shade under a tree and cycled over to it, no more than 50 yards or so. ...READ MORE...
My morning search for inner tubes of the right size and valve having been successful, and Richard having found a bank to get some cash, we were off on a 55 mile stretch that would take us to Tazzarine. The road was the N12, which by and large was a decent road, but the ride seemed a bit long, and we both found ourselves getting short on water. So, note to self, no matter how many little villages and possible watering holes you think there might be along the way for replenishment, still take lots of water with you ! Basic stuff really, 101 of bicycle touring ! ... READ MORE...
We shook the dust from our feet as we left the Hotel Bougafer in Tazzarine, after a passable breakfast served by the hard working waiter with the boss sitting playing with is phone and taking no part in any preceedings, except when it came to paying the final bill, and even that was a lackadaisical affair. At least it was at the budget end of the scale. I'm not sure if you get much better if you trade up. ... READ MORE...
Eid Mubarak ! In the morning, it was bright and sunny, and everybody was out and about in their finest, some of the young men in the most outlandish dishdash and slippers. Lots of lemon colour ! I'm not sure they have any sense of how camp they look walking around swathed head to toe in sherbert lemon. And, an all pervasive whiff of Middle Eastern cologne, a bit too strong and cloying, and lingering forever. The kids were all in their new clothes for the feast day, the lads in football track suits of their favourite teams, definitely knock offs. But, who is going to check ? The little girls in Cinderella dress, or however the latest cartoon film heroine dresses. All very happy and they were meeting and greeting, and kissing each other at least three, if not four times, on the cheeks. I don't know what else the day would bring for them, but it was definitely a day of celebration after their weeks of fasting during Ramadan. And, the Muezzin was having a field day.. ... READ MORE...
Today was a dayto stay in Tinghir, and ride the 10 miles or so up to the gorges, up in to the mountains, following the river, mostly with green pastures and palm groves down in the valley. The Gorges de Dades are definitely a tourist Mecca, and there were lots of buses, cars and people up there, and one or two cyclists like us. Without our bag and baggage, riding was nice up the canyon. At the narrowest point of the gorge there was a traffic jam, and I was amazed at the size of buses that were trying to make their way to the most scenic parts. Up on the rocks of the gorge / ravine, there were climbers with their ropes and tackle, all very precipitous. Further up the gorge, away from the madding crowd, it was quiet and peaceful, and beautiful. Other than that, we did very little, except eat the formulaic tagine / couscous, although we did manage to snaffle a couple of small beers from the posh hotel, but two little 25 cl bottle each were enough. I am certainly out of practice. Coke Zero is my preferred drink here, along with eau gazeuse. ... READ MORE...
As I write, I'm finding it hard to remember how was the ride along the RN10 from Tinghir to Boumalne Dades ! I often catch up with my post for a particular day some days later when I have the time and the energy, so I have to think hard about where I've been and what I've seen and heard. Richard is much more disciplined and timely on his blog, so I shall have a peek and tell you ! ... READ MORE...
I still felt a bit washed out in the morning. Richard was all for an early start, which he had, but I hung around a bit more taking it slowly, and then took to the road, heading for Skoura. Our plans are still evolving, but I am definitely not up for a long bus trip in my present condition. Why the bus trip ? Well, so that we can get to a starting point to take an a different pass over the Atlas Mountains. We will see !! ... READ MORE...
So, what did the morning bring ? Well, I was still adamant that I was getting on no bus. Richard, thinking better of it, was planning on staying the day in Skoura, which suggested to me that he was somewhat worse than he was letting on, but still insisting that he would bus it to Taroudante so that he could take on an alternative Atlas Mountain pass. I decided that I would carry on and retrace the route back over the Atlas Mountains from whence we had come, via Aid Ben Haddou and Agdal Telouet, and we would regroup somewhere once he had done his route over the mountains. ... READ MORE...
Today's ride was challenging. The road follows a valley, and then up over a couple of pretty high climbs. It's all beautiful and scenic, with lovely green valleys, and high mountain sides, but there was a lot of up and down, and a couple of difficult climbs. Once I reached Telouet, I had to start going west, and the wind off the mountains was awful so much so that I walked parts of the last 10 km because I was easier than trying to stay in the saddle. Added to this, I had a puncture, which has been a theme of this journey, which I blame on the useful Schwalbe One tyres I am using. My fault, I guess, I really should have thought a bit more carefully about it. I'm expert at changing inner tubes in quick time. ... READ MORE...
Today's ride was challenging. The road follows a valley, and then up over a couple of pretty high climbs. It's all beautiful and scenic, with lovely green valleys, and high mountain sides, but there was a lot of up and down, and a couple of difficult climbs. Once I reached Telouet, I had to start going west, and the wind off the mountains was awful so much so that I walked parts of the last 10 km because I was easier than trying to stay in the saddle. Added to this, I had a puncture, which has been a theme of this journey, which I blame on the useful Schwalbe One tyres I am using. My fault, I guess, I really should have thought a bit more carefully about it. I'm expert at changing inner tubes in quick time. ... READ MORE...
On this trip I'm riding a Brompton G Line, which is the 20 inch wheel, larger, gravel Brompton bike. The advantage is that it still folds like a Brompton, and therefore is much easier to transport on plane and train. For baggage, I'm using a Brompton front bag, and then two small 7 litre panniers on the back, which are small enough to give me heel clearance, and a saddle bag. Enough space for all my clobber. The G-Line comes with a Nexus 8 speed hub, but that would not be enough gears and range for going up some serious mountain passes, so I've had it switched for a trusty Rohloff 14 speed hub, which I have on other bikes, and is robust and reliable. Japanese plastic c**p or German Panzer quality ? No discussion there. The bike, gearing and baggage all worked well, even on those long climbs. My only problem was with tyres. Brompton equip the G-Line with Schwalbe One tyres, either tubless or with tubes. I was running them with tubes. Probably a mistake, because I have since noted that Schwalbe give the tubless a good puncture resistance rating, but refrain from giving a puncture restistance rating when they are run with tubes. Anyhow, I was getting punctures almost every day, even though the majority of riding was on road with only a bit on compact stone verges. I will change the tyres for something much more Unplatbarr next time. Apart from the punctures, I found the G-Line a perfectly good bike for some light touring.
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