Today was another day of climbing over a mountain pass on the way to Agdz as we make our way down further south to a series of oases towns.  But first, we had to get over a pass of 1700 meters / 5600 ft, through some spectacular mountain  and valley views,  along the RN9 which has been substantially renovated in the last few years, and so was a good road for riding along with a decent margin for safety.  And then, once over the summit, it was a nice long downhill in to Agdz, which is at the head of a valley that is green and fertile, with lots of palm trees and various crops which are able to be grown there because of the water.  I'm not sure where the water comes from, perhaps from aquafers deep underground.  Anyhow, the end result is a lush and pleasant environment. 

We stayed at a very pleasant Riad called Le Chant de Palmiers, set in a palm grove, with lots of nice shaded areas with water features and fountains.  Many of the places we have been staying appear very quiet - tonight the only other people were a French couple beside  Richard and me.  Maybe it's because it's still Ramadan in these parts, maybe because the season proper hasn't started yet.  I think April / May / June are the tourist season proper, thereafter it is too hot, at least until the autumn months.  

Ramadan should be coming to an end in a few days, although exactly when still depends on some Mullah/Imam/Ayatollah/Religious Worthy, in presumably Saudi Arabia, seeing the new moon, although he  (and it will most certainly be a he) might not be able to see it, maybe because his eyesight is duff, or because of haze, or clouds, or whatever, even though the new moon is astronomically there. Until he does see it with own eyes, and confirms so, Ramadan does not end, and the Eid Feast cannot begin, and it could add another day or two of Ramadan fasting until the sighting of the new moon is confirmed, so Mrs Mo's plans for the Eid celebrations will have to be very flexible.  It's a bit like not knowing whether Christmas Day is on the 25 or 26 or 27th December, even though we know the Baby Jesus was born on 25th December.  Don't we ?!  Bit of a nonsense really, especially in this day and age when we really do know when the new moon occurs.  But, it seems to be all down to these moon watchers  in wherever, and everybody is wating upon their confirmation of a sighting of the new moon.  And I have no doubt that there will be different schools of Islam with different interpretations of what constitutes a new moon and when it is officially a new moon, etc., etc.  I really do feel for Mrs Mo and her Eid preparations.

You can't get away from Ramadan here.  The days are quiet, but as soon as the fast breaks when the sun sets, then everybody is out and about until the wee small hours.  Getting food and drink during the day is a bit problematic, not everywhere is open during the fast.  Most people seem to keep to the fast, at least publicly. The nice man at the Riad in Ait Benhaddou, whose wife is visibly pregnant, told me that she does not have to fast because of her condition.  So, it's good to see some sense in the application of the Ramadan fast for those who really should not fast from food and water for so many hours. A bit like the Lenten fasting exemptions in Catholicism.  Even outside of Ramadan, Morocco is clearly a majority Muslim country, although sort of Muslim Lite.  Every village has its mosque, the best kept building in the village, I suspect funded from Saudi Arabian / Qatari / UAE  money, pursing their influence agenda and their version of Islam.  The call to prayer is loud-speakered several times a day by the Muezzin, some of whom are better than others, some clearly needing lessons in tone, style and tune.  Give me a peal of church bells any day. 

You can follow my route via my Garmin satellite tracker at  https://share.garmin.com/chrismarsden1954    Choose "View All Tracks" in the top right hand corner of the map to see the full route.

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