Back to Morocco for some Springtime cycling in the Atlas Mountains. I had a taster last year in 2024, on an organised tour, which was fine, but this year I want to be a bit more independent and do my own thing. However, not alone. I am too old and risk averse these days to go completely solo, so have teamed up with a cycling companion, Richard, who will cycle with me. We are both of a similar age, retired, but want the assurance of some company when out and about in Morocco. We found each other on one of the various touring cyclist websites, and connected, and I visited him near Cadiz earlier in the year so we could both have a look/ see of each other. Must have worked because we agreed to cycle together in Morocco and give each other the assurance of some company on our travels. Richard lives in Spain with his wife, so he flew from Malaga, while I flew from Birmingham, and we met in Marrakesh, staying two nights in a small Riad in the old part of the city as we got ourselves organised and prepared for the off. Marrakesh is busy, bustling, noisy, chaotic, and mildly interesting, although I think it is overhyped on the travel shows. The main square can be fun, but I very quickly tire of people selling trinkets, and performing - fire eaters, pet monkeys doing tricks etc. The food isn't that great, lots of tagines or cousous, and then more tagines or couscous. We are here during Ramadam, so the place is busy in the evenings when the locals break their fast - presumably with tagines and cousous ! - and, of course, there is no alcohol on offer, which doesn't bother me, and will - some will no doubt say ! - do me good !
My morning search for inner tubes of the right size and valve having been successful, and Richard having found a bank to get some cash, we were off on a 55 mile stretch that would take us to Tazzarine. The road was the N12, which by and large was a decent road, but the ride seemed a bit long, and we both found ourselves getting short on water. So, note to self, no matter how many little villages and possible watering holes you think there might be along the way for replenishment, still take lots of water with you ! Basic stuff really, 101 of bicycle touring ! ... READ MORE...
We shook the dust from our feet as we left the Hotel Bougafer in Tazzarine, after a passable breakfast served by the hard working waiter with the boss sitting playing with is phone and taking no part in any preceedings, except when it came to paying the final bill, and even that was a lackadaisical affair. At least it was at the budget end of the scale. I'm not sure if you get much better if you trade up. ... READ MORE...
Eid Mubarak ! In the morning, it was bright and sunny, and everybody was out and about in their finest, some of the young men in the most outlandish dishdash and slippers. Lots of lemon colour ! I'm not sure they have any sense of how camp they look walking around swathed head to toe in sherbert lemon. And, an all pervasive whiff of Middle Eastern cologne, a bit too strong and cloying, and lingering forever. The kids were all in their new clothes for the feast day, the lads in football track suits of their favourite teams, definitely knock offs. But, who is going to check ? The little girls in Cinderella dress, or however the latest cartoon film heroine dresses. All very happy and they were meeting and greeting, and kissing each other at least three, if not four times, on the cheeks. I don't know what else the day would bring for them, but it was definitely a day of celebration after their weeks of fasting during Ramadan. And, the Muezzin was having a field day.. ... READ MORE...
Today was a dayto stay in Tinghir, and ride the 10 miles or so up to the gorges, up in to the mountains, following the river, mostly with green pastures and palm groves down in the valley. The Gorges de Dades are definitely a tourist Mecca, and there were lots of buses, cars and people up there, and one or two cyclists like us. Without our bag and baggage, riding was nice up the canyon. At the narrowest point of the gorge there was a traffic jam, and I was amazed at the size of buses that were trying to make their way to the most scenic parts. Up on the rocks of the gorge / ravine, there were climbers with their ropes and tackle, all very precipitous. Further up the gorge, away from the madding crowd, it was quiet and peaceful, and beautiful. Other than that, we did very little, except eat the formulaic tagine / couscous, although we did manage to snaffle a couple of small beers from the posh hotel, but two little 25 cl bottle each were enough. I am certainly out of practice. Coke Zero is my preferred drink here, along with eau gazeuse. ... READ MORE...
As I write, I'm finding it hard to remember how was the ride along the RN10 from Tinghir to Boumalne Dades ! I often catch up with my post for a particular day some days later when I have the time and the energy, so I have to think hard about where I've been and what I've seen and heard. Richard is much more disciplined and timely on his blog, so I shall have a peek and tell you ! ... READ MORE...
I still felt a bit washed out in the morning. Richard was all for an early start, which he had, but I hung around a bit more taking it slowly, and then took to the road, heading for Skoura. Our plans are still evolving, but I am definitely not up for a long bus trip in my present condition. Why the bus trip ? Well, so that we can get to a starting point to take an a different pass over the Atlas Mountains. We will see !! ... READ MORE...
So, what did the morning bring ? Well, I was still adamant that I was getting on no bus. Richard, thinking better of it, was planning on staying the day in Skoura, which suggested to me that he was somewhat worse than he was letting on, but still insisting that he would bus it to Taroudante so that he could take on an alternative Atlas Mountain pass. I decided that I would carry on and retrace the route back over the Atlas Mountains from whence we had come, via Aid Ben Haddou and Agdal Telouet, and we would regroup somewhere once he had done his route over the mountains. ... READ MORE...
Today's ride was challenging. The road follows a valley, and then up over a couple of pretty high climbs. It's all beautiful and scenic, with lovely green valleys, and high mountain sides, but there was a lot of up and down, and a couple of difficult climbs. Once I reached Telouet, I had to start going west, and the wind off the mountains was awful so much so that I walked parts of the last 10 km because I was easier than trying to stay in the saddle. Added to this, I had a puncture, which has been a theme of this journey, which I blame on the useful Schwalbe One tyres I am using. My fault, I guess, I really should have thought a bit more carefully about it. I'm expert at changing inner tubes in quick time. ... READ MORE...
I started out from my rustic auberge de Muhammed after a nice Berber breakfast, and headed up to join the RN9 where it would pass over the Tizi n'Tichka. I started off at 1100 meters/ 3,600ft and it was a climb of another 1100 meters / 3,600 ft up to the Col de Tichka at 2220 meters / 7200 feet, so it was quiet a climb, but the weather was lovely and the road quiet. I though that the RN9 down to Marrakesh was all downhill from the Col, but infact there is another climb along he way, the Tizi Barka, another 400 meters /1500 ft climb. I think I've got my sums right there. . ... READ MORE...
On this trip I'm riding a Brompton G Line, which is the 20 inch wheel, larger, gravel Brompton bike. The advantage is that it still folds like a Brompton, and therefore is much easier to transport on plane and train. For baggage, I'm using a Brompton front bag, and then two small 7 litre panniers on the back, which are small enough to give me heel clearance, and a saddle bag. Enough space for all my clobber. The G-Line comes with a Nexus 8 speed hub, but that would not be enough gears and range for going up some serious mountain passes, so I've had it switched for a trusty Rohloff 14 speed hub, which I have on other bikes, and is robust and reliable. Japanese plastic c**p or German Panzer quality ? No discussion there. The bike, gearing and baggage all worked well, even on those long climbs. My only problem was with tyres. Brompton equip the G-Line with Schwalbe One tyres, either tubless or with tubes. I was running them with tubes. Probably a mistake, because I have since noted that Schwalbe give the tubless a good puncture resistance rating, but refrain from giving a puncture restistance rating when they are run with tubes. Anyhow, I was getting punctures almost every day, even though the majority of riding was on road with only a bit on compact stone verges. I will change the tyres for something much more Unplatbarr next time. Apart from the punctures, I found the G-Line a perfectly good bike for some light touring.
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